As we continue to languish amid the seeming endless summer heat, it could be considered a natural desire to refresh ourselves with a charming white wine.  Even those of us whose normal preference is toward dry, red, peppery wines can appreciate a lovely white on a warm summer day. What is unfortunate is that "Chardonnay" has become synonymous with "white wine".  This is not meant to be a slur on Chardonnay, as there are many exquisite Chardonnays available but it is rather an acknowledgement that if someone asks for a glass of white wine, the assumption will be made toward Chardonnay.  Often this is to the point where other white wines might not even be available.  In addition, those who are part of the "Anything but Chardonnay" crowd will confirm that there are many lesser-quality Chardonnays flooding the market. Even a higher price is no guarantee that the Chardonnay will be above-par.  For these reasons, it is important to learn about Chardonnay, including finer Chardonnays, as well as other white wines which one can enjoy as a substitute.

Chardonnay is a green skinned white grape believed to have originated from the Burgundy wine region in France. It is often a strong element of many sparkling wines, including Champagne. Chardonnay can come in many different styles, including the fine, dry wines of Chablis or rich and buttery New World wines.  Fine Chardonnays, especially Chablis, are often not exposed to oak.  An acidity of green apple or an aged, honeyed-flavor are the desired traits of these wines.  Oak can alter or mellow these flavors.  American Oak (which is often used as oak chips) tends to leave a more vanilla-flavor which is considered undesirable in finer Chardonnays, most notably in France.  Those vintners who do use oak, especially in France, will tend to use more neutral oak barrels. Many are the flaws which a heavily-oaked Chardonnay can try to conceal, such as a blending with inferior grapes or grapes from a poorer harvest.  It is for this reason that many people have been burned on Chardonnay and follow the "Anything but Chardonnay" movement.  When a Chardonnay is desired, I often advise spending the additional money on a Chardonnay from France, especially a Chablis. It is usually a safer bet than spending what can still be a nice sum for what may well be an inferior wine. However, there are regions in California which have the reputation for making a fine Chardonnay.  These tend to be the ones whose climate is influenced by heavy coastal fogs, which can slow the ripening of the grape and allow more time for flavors to develop. These regions include the Russian River Valley and the Alexander Valley, both of which are part of Sonoma County.  Chateau St. Jean was so impressed with quality of the Chardonnay grapes coming from the Alexander Valley that they started making Chardonnays exclusively from the Robert Young Vineyard, putting the vineyard's name on their wine label beginning in 1975.  These tend to be among the finer California Chardonnays and are worth a taste.

If someone is still not desiring a Chardonnay, perhaps from having been burned by too many lesser-quality Chardonnays, my usual recommendation is that they consider a Viognier.  The Viognier grape is an ancient varietal, believed to have been brought to the Rhone Valley by the Romans in about 281 A.D.  It is also the only grape permitted by the Condrieu AOC in the Rhone Valley. 

The Viognier grape can be a more temperamental grape to grow, partly due to its susceptibility to powdery mildew, partly due to it preferring warmer environments and partly due to the fact that it can yield low or unpredictable harvests. It addition, it should only be picked when absolutely, fully ripe, unless a late-harvest dessert wine is desired.  Anything else will cause wines which are either lacking in flavor or wines which are oily and lack perfume.

Not long ago I was part of a discussion regarding if Viognier could replace Chardonnay as a primary white wine.  My answer, simply, was "no".  Not that I would (necessarily) mind if this would occur but rather due to the fact that there are not very many Viognier grapes which are being planted, especially in the U.S., mostly due to the reasons I gave above.  It is, however, increasing in popularity, I suspect in part due to the "ABC" crowd.

Viognier is a grape which has surprisingly few variations of flavor.  In other words, one Viognier will taste similar to another Viognier, even if they are from different regions.  Viognier wines are popular for their floral aromas.  Some Viogniers, depending upon where they are grown and the age of the vine, may also have stronger fruit-forward flavors such as green apple or additional floral aromas.  As I had mentioned in my article, Wine Tasting 101:  Fruitiness does not equal Sweetness, a common misconception among many is that a Viognier is a sweet wine.  Though Viognier can be made into sweet and late-harvest dessert wines, it is traditionally dry. Those who mistake a dry Viognier for a sweet wine are often confused by the fruit-forward flavor, perfumed-aroma and pale color - all of which would suggest a sweeter wine.  It is also a grape with low-acidity, which a few tend to mistake for a sweeter wine.

Though there are some Viogniers which are suitable for aging (which tend to come from older vines or a later harvest), most Viogniers are meant to be appreciated at a younger age.  Viogniers which are older than 3 years tend to lose some of their floral aroma, which is the very trait that makes a Viognier desirable.  Dessert Viogniers are made from late-harvest grapes, mostly in areas which are not prone to mildew.  These wines tend to be suitable for aging.

One of the reasons Viognier is gaining more approval within the U.S. may be, in part, due to how well it pairs with foods which are popular with the American palate. Spicy, peppery foods, (especially Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese foods) pair beautifully with Viognier.  Viognier's fruit-forward tendencies and floral perfume make it an excellent compliment for such dishes. As it is not vinified in oak, its flavors and aromas can be similar to what is found in fine Sake.  For these reasons, it pairs well with the same dishes.

There are many fine Viogniers available at affordable prices, especially if they come from California.  Expect to pay a higher price for what is usually an excellent Viognier from along the Rhone river in France.  Still, a quality Viognier from California can easily cost under $20. In addition, there are many fine dessert Viogniers coming out of California as well.

I hope you enjoyed this article.  If so, you might also appreciate:

• Top 5 California Zins for under $20.
• Meritage Wine: America's Bordeaux-Styled Blend
• Cinsault and Mourvedre,  Red Wine Grapes for a Beautiful Harvest
• Health Benefits of Red Wine:  What's Real and What's Hype

Thank you.